Scandinavia was on the list of places I wanted to visit for many years. I cannot find words to describe my joy when Marcin surprised me with a trip to a country that I immediately associate with not only breathtaking views but also with… Lagom, IKEA, and C. Läckberg’s crime novels.
Art. Design and culture. Malmö.
It’s a real culinary haven, where Swedish cuisine mingles with trends from all over the world (believe me, no coffee enthusiast will get disappointed here). Also, it’s one of the most green cities in the world; it won many awards for implementing sustainable development strategies – 30% of energy used by the citizens comes from renewable sources (by 2030 it is supposed to be 100% (!) ). It seemed unbelievable to me that only 2% of waste goes to garbage dumps – all the rest gets recycled.
Modernity and ecology. Lagom.
Malmö is modern and multicultural – but also very… lagom*. One of the highest apartment buildings in Europe – the modern and architecturally intriguing Turning Torso (54 floors, 190 meters high ) – towers over Västra Hamnen (“Western Harbor”) that is one of the most unique neighborhoods in the world as it is in 100% powered by renewable energy. This district is a collaboration between ecologists and architects. The houses were built of organic materials, their roofs are decorated with beautiful gardens. Eco-friendly neighborhood of the future? Yes, it’s here! We still have so much to learn…
A large number of buses that serve as a means of public transportation uses biogas that comes from leftovers from restaurants and cafés (by the way, I recommend using an app called Skånetrafiken – it can serve as a great trip planner as it does not only enable you to purchase public transportation tickets but also check all the timetables and possible delays – it’s a great tool).
*Swedish name for the art of finding a balance in life. Being “just the right amount”. Life in harmony with nature, choosing moderation over extremes.
I enjoyed Malmö a lot. I will remember it as a city full of charming cafés, full of taste and design, full of green areas in the city center. There is no place for a typical big city rush. Coffee breaks. Cinnamon buns. Quiet moments in a café or at a park during work. Yes, all of this happens there.
During our stay, many people asked me if we felt safe there. We surely did.
How to get there
By car from Copenhagen:
This 16-kilometers long trip, that consists of an 8-kilometers long road leading through an island and a tunnel as well as of another 8-kilometers long crossing through the Öresund Bridge (Öresundsbron, the longest bridge connecting two countries together, monumental, hanging over the Sound), is an unforgettable experience. Believe me, the view is breathtaking. We drove in a dense fog – it was incredible. There was the same mood as in the Scandinavian series “The Bridge” – if you haven’t seen it yet, I recommend it to all fans of Swedish crime stories. Crossing the bridge costs about 450 DKK. **
**Previously, Skåne County belonged to Denmark. Denmark and Sweden did not get along. The bridge is a symbol of Nordic values and unity above divisions.
From Poland: directly from Warsaw, Gdańsk, Katowice – Wizzair, or from Kraków (Ryanair). Also, you can go to Copenhagen (SAS, LOT) and then continue by car or by train through the Öresund Bridge (about 25 minutes).
By a ferry:
From Gdynia or Świnoujście to Karlskrona (Stena Line) or to Ystad (Polferries and Unity Line) and then by a means of public transportation or by car (when you are in Poland of course)
shoes| KAZAR STUDIO
Knit | Pull & Bear
Straw hat | Paris+Hendzel
where to eat
I’m sure everyone will be satisfied with Malmö’s cuisine. Michelin-starred restaurants, charming bakeries, places full of good taste and design. Many vegan options for those who are gluten and lactose intolerant (Malmö! I love you!).
Our favorite place to have breakfasts and drink coffee (especially the best beetroot latte ever!). Ultra-tasty gluten-free options. And of course… the atmosphere. Magical place. You have to stop by.
Söderberg & Sara
Another great place for breakfasts and coffee. Organic bakery, where every product is tended to with lots of love. We dropped in during lunch time – I ate there the best seasoned vegetables ever! Simplicity + high-quality products = best taste.
A piece of boho heaven. Climatic greenhouse, outside tables in the beautiful Slottsträdgården garden. Amazing atmosphere and yummy food. We went there a few times and we always ordered the same dishes – I went for a hot smoked salmon served with a potato salad and Marcin chose Swedish meatballs. Can you believe that they were so delicious that thinking about their taste makes me want to teleport there right now? Organic, local products – lots of them grown in the adjacent garden.
Awarded by Michelin (Bib Gourmand). Don’t forget to book a table! Contemporary home-style cooking. A true heaven for carnivores.
The Raw Kitchen Malmö
I mentioned a true heaven for carnivores (with whom I don’t really identify) so now it’s time for something 100% raw-vegan and gluten and lactose free. The menu is incredible. Raw-vegan pizza, TIRAWmisu – woow.
Where to stop for a coffee and something sweet
A concept. A fusion of a boutique and a café. Perfect coffee. I also tried their wheatgrass latte (gluten free) – it’s amazing. The atmosphere is super chilled out. The citizens come there to work on their laptops, read a newspaper or a book. A really cozy place.
A mix of a café and a shop with Scandinavian design (everything from interior design to bedroom, cosmetics etc.). Vegan desserts. A beautiful place. But I need to warn you – it’s difficult to leave without buying anything, and filling your shopping bags may be hard on your budget. However, I recommend at least to drop in and admire the design as well as eat some delicious vegan dessert to chase off the sadness caused by choosing not to make any new purchases.
A charming café in French style. One of those places that make you want to just sit by the window or by one of the outside tables and inhale the unique rhythm of the city. Tasty coffee and incredible atmosphere.
And don’t forget about Atrium, which I mentioned earlier!
Where to stay
Yes, I know that I always start with Airbnb, but the truth is that we find there about 90% of accommodation during our trips. This time I found an apartment in a modern neighborhood in the suburbs. It was a fantastic choice. Located in a rural area, with Scandinavian design, 2 minutes away from the railway station, 12 minutes away from IKEA, and 20 minutes away by car from the city center. A dog-friendly apartment.
GETS $ OFF – YOUR AIRBNB STAY 🙂
You can find our apartment here:
Beautiful boutique hotel, great location, Scandinavian design. I love it for the bathtubs by the windows (with view of the city). Everything’s perfect , except… it’s not a dog-friendly place. However, if you travel without your dogs, don’t even consider choosing another place to stay.
Clarion Hotel Malmö Live
Nice location, great views from the windows (on higher floors), a dog-friendly place.
What I do not recommend is Quality Hotel The Mill – we had to look for a place to spend the night in (an emergency situation). The hotel had good reviews and was supposedly new. However, from a new hotel I would expect at least cleanness but instead, having booked a room for guests with dogs, we received a dusty room where the carpet was dirty with dog pee and the bedsheets were covered in dog hair. It wasn’t a nice or a cozy place. In our room there was also a closed door to another room… I felt uncomfortable, especially due to the fact that the rooms were not soundproof. The breakfast was alright, but there was nothing special about it.
MUST SEE | Malmö
Wonderful castle gardens. Super rural place in the city center. Thematic gardens, smaller gardens divided with charming fences, gates as in the countryside and summerhouses. You can discover every corner of this place – admire a nice-smelling pea (I love it’s smell!), observe different varieties of tomatoes and growing summer squash. Boring? Not in today’s world, where nature and slow life are in demand.
One of the most picturesque aspects of Malmö. An old and a new lighthouse with a nearby bridge and a beautiful view of the city.
Turning Torso & Västra Hamnen
You need to visit this unique place. In the picture you can see a perfect spot to admire beautiful sunsets (Dockan Marina). One of my favorite places for walks in the city.
Fish market and old fishing huts
Fish caught by local fishermen and fresh sea food. Colorful wooden old huts. One of those places that have to be captured in a photograph. Go find a nearby Malmö Museum.
Old Town, Lilla Torg
Something for architecture lovers. Colorful, charming tenement houses. Art galleries, cafés, restaurants.
Wide, sandy beach and baths. Picturesque pier and great view of the city.
Charming boutiques worth visiting
I’m not a shopaholic but I love concept shops, design shops, and vintage shops as well as local products. Such places and items always inspire me. If you feel the same way, you have to visit: Butik Fabric (so pretty!), already mentioned AB Småland, and, if you have children, Mini Rodini – you’re going to fall in love with that place!